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| NORTHERN
TANZANIA |
| ARUSHA
NATIONAL PARK |
The
closest national park to Arusha town – northern Tanzania’s safari
capital – Arusha National Park is a multi-faceted jewel, often overlooked
by safarigoers, despite offering the opportunity to explore a beguiling
diversity of habitats within a few hours.
The entrance gate leads into shadowy montane forest inhabited by
inquisitive blue monkeys and colourful turacos and trogons – the
only place on the northern safari circuit where the acrobatic black-and-white
colobus monkey is easily seen. In the midst of the forest stands
the spectacular Ngurdoto Crater, whose steep, rocky cliffs enclose
a wide marshy floor dotted with herds of buffalo and warthog.
Further north, rolling grassy hills enclose the tranquil beauty
of the Momela Lakes, each one a different hue of green or blue.
Their shallow water sometime is tinged pink with thousands of flamingos,
The lakes support a rich selection of resident and migrant waterfowl,
and shaggy waterbucks display their large lyre-shaped horns on the
watery fringes. Giraffes glide across the grassy hills, between
grazing zebra herds, while pairs of wide-eyed dik-dik dart into
scrubby bush like overgrown hares on spindly legs.
Although elephants are uncommon in Arusha National Park, and lions
absent altogether, spotted hyenas may be seen slinking around in
the early morning and late afternoon. It is also at dusk and dawn
that the veil of cloud on the eastern horizon is most likely to
clear, revealing the majestic snow-capped peaks of Kilimanjaro,
only 100km (60 miles) distant.
But it is Kilimanjaro’s unassuming cousin, Mount Meru - the fifth
highest in Africa at 4,566 metres (14,990 feet) – that dominates
the park’s horizon. Its peaks and eastern footslopes protected within
the national park, Meru offers unparalleled views of its famous
neighbour, while also forming a rewarding hiking destination in
its own right.
Passing first through wooded savannah where buffalos and giraffes
are frequently encountered, the ascent of Meru leads into forests
aflame with red-hot pokers and dripping with Spanish moss, before
reaching high open heath spiked with giant lobelias. Everlasting
flowers cling to the alpine desert, as delicately-hoofed klipspringers
mark the hike’s progress. Astride the craggy summit, Kilimanjaro
stands unveiled, blushing in the sunrise.
About
Arusha National Park
Size: 137 sq km (53 sq miles).
Location: Northern Tanzania, northeast of Arusha town.
What
to do
Forest walks, numerous picnic sites;
three- or four-day Mt Meru climb - good acclimatisation for Kilimanjaro.
When
to go
To climb Mt Meru, June-February although it may rain in November.
Best views of Kilimanjaro December-February. |
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Lake
Manyara National Park |
Stretching
for 50km along the base of the rusty-gold 600-metre high Rift Valley
escarpment, Lake Manyara is a scenic gem, with a setting extolled
by Ernest Hemingway as “the loveliest I had seen in Africa”.
The compact game-viewing circuit through Manyara offers a virtual
microcosm of the Tanzanian safari experience.
From the entrance gate, the road winds through an expanse of lush
jungle-like groundwater forest where hundred-strong baboon troops
lounge nonchalantly along the roadside, blue monkeys scamper nimbly
between the ancient mahogany trees, dainty bushbuck tread warily
through the shadows, and outsized forest hornbills honk cacophonously
in the high canopy.
Contrasting with the intimacy of the forest is the grassy floodplain
and its expansive views eastward, across the alkaline lake, to the
jagged blue volcanic peaks that rise from the endless Maasai Steppes.
Large buffalo, wildebeest and zebra herds congregate on these grassy
plains, as do giraffes – some so dark in coloration that they
appear to be black from a distance.
Inland of the floodplain, a narrow belt of acacia woodland is the
favoured haunt of Manyara’s legendary tree-climbing lions
and impressively tusked elephants. Squadrons of banded mongoose
dart between the acacias, while the diminutive Kirk’s dik-dik
forages in their shade. Pairs of klipspringer are often seen silhouetted
on the rocks above a field of searing hot springs that steams and
bubbles adjacent to the lakeshore in the far south of the park.
Manyara provides the perfect introduction to Tanzania’s birdlife.
More than 400 species have been recorded, and even a first-time
visitor to Africa might reasonably expect to observe 100 of these
in one day. Highlights include thousands of pink-hued flamingos
on their perpetual migration, as well as other large waterbirds
such as pelicans, cormorants and storks.
About
Lake Manyara National Park
Size: 330 sq km (127 sq miles), of which up to 200 sq km (77 sq
miles) is lake when water levels are high.
Location: In northern Tanzania. The entrance gate lies 1.5 hours
(126km/80 miles) west of Arusha along a newly surfaced road, close
to the ethnically diverse market town of Mto wa Mbu.
What
to do
Game drives, canoeing when the water levels is sufficiently high.
Cultural tours, normal bike tours and forest walks on the escarpment
outside the park.
When
to go
Dry season (July-October) for large mammals;
wet season (November-June) for bird watching, the waterfalls and
canoeing.
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Mount
Kilimanjaro National Park |
Kilimanjaro.
The name itself is a mystery wreathed in clouds. It might mean Mountain
of Light, Mountain of Greatness or Mountain of Caravans. Or it might
not. The local people, the Wachagga, don't even have a name for
the whole massif, only Kipoo (now known as Kibo) for the familiar
snowy peak that stands imperious, overseer of the continent, the
summit of Africa.
Kilimanjaro, by any name, is a metaphor for the compelling beauty
of East Africa. When you see it, you understand why. Not only is
this the highest peak on the African continent; it is also the tallest
free-standing mountain in the world, rising in breathtaking isolation
from the surrounding coastal scrubland – elevation around
900 metres – to an imperious 5,895 metres (19,336 feet).
Kilimanjaro is one of the world's most accessible high summits,
a beacon for visitors from around the world. Most climbers reach
the crater rim with little more than a walking stick, proper clothing
and determination. And those who reach Uhuru Point, the actual summit,
or Gillman's Point on the lip of the crater, will have earned their
climbing certificates.
And their memories.
But there is so much more to Kili than her summit. The ascent of
the slopes is a virtual climatic world tour, from the tropics to
the Arctic.
Even before you cross the national park boundary (at the 2,700m
contour), the cultivated footslopes give way to lush montane forest,
inhabited by elusive elephant, leopard, buffalo, the endangered
Abbot’s duiker, and other small antelope and primates. Higher
still lies the moorland zone, where a cover of giant heather is
studded with otherworldly giant lobelias.
Above 4,000m, a surreal alpine desert supports little life other
than a few hardy mosses and lichen. Then, finally, the last vestigial
vegetation gives way to a winter wonderland of ice and snow –
and the magnificent beauty of the roof of the continent.
About
Kilimanjaro National Park
Size: 755 sq km (292 sq miles).
Location: Northern Tanzania, near the town of Moshi.
What
to do
Six usual trekking routes to the summit and other more-demanding
mountaineering routes.
Day or overnight hikes on the Shira plateau. Nature trails on the
lower reaches.
Trout fishing.
Visit the beautiful Chala crater lake on the mountain’s southeastern
slopes.
When
to go
Clearest and warmest conditions from December to February, but also
dry (and colder) from July-September.
Accommodation
Huts and campsites on the mountain. |
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| Mkomazi
Game Reserve |
Mkomazi Game Reserve is located in north-eastern Tanzania, on the
Kenyan border.
As well as being a wet season sanctuary for the elephant, Mkomazi
also holds populations of lesser kudu, gerenuk, oryx, eland, giraffe,
buffalo, lion, leopard and cheetah.
During the 1970's and 1980's, Mkomazi suffered a
dramatic decline due to inadequate protection. Today, thanks
to support from conservation organizations, Mkomazi is on
the road to recovery due to the work of conservationists.
A unique success story in Tanzanian conservation, the Conservationists'
vision for Mkomazi is based on the legacy of their friendship
and work with nature.
The park is situated right next to Tsavo National Park and in the
wet season, large migratory herds of elephant, oryx and zebra wander
through the parks. The 1262km² reserve is predominantly dry
and supports savannah vegetation which is also home to the "big
five" (lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and leopard.)
The park boasts 78 kinds of mammals and over 400 bird species. The
endangered wild dog or African wild dog is also spotted in the reserve. |
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NGORONGORO
CRATER |
Called
the eighth wonder of the world and stretching across some 8,300
sq km, the Ngorongoro Conservation Area in northern Tanzania boasts
a blend of landscapes, wildlife, people and archaeology that is
unsurpassed in Africa. The volcanoes, grasslands, waterfalls and
mountain forests are home to an abundance of animals and to the
Maasai.
Ngorongoro Crater is one of the world's greatest natural spectacles,
its magical setting and abundant wildlife never fail to enthral
visitors. It borders the Serengeti National Park to the north and
west. A few hours drive to the east takes you to the town of Arusha
which nestles at the foot of Mount Meru, within view of Mount Kilimanjaro.
Arusha is known as the gateway to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area
and the Northern Parks.
The Ngorongoro Conservation Area also encompasses the volcanic area
around the Ngorongoro Crater - including the still active volcano
of Oldonyo Lengai and the famous Olduvai Gorge. Its centerpiece,
the Ngorongoro Crater, is the largest unbroken caldera in the world
and the first sight of it is breathtaking. The floor of the crater
is only 100 sq miles but is home to around 30,000 animals with a
high concentration of predators.
The crater supports up to 25,000 large mammals. Grazers dominate:
zebra, wildebeest - accounting for almost half the animals - gazelle,
buffalo, eland, hartebeest and wart hog. Giraffe, for example, stay
away because there is insufficient food at tree level; topi because
they compete directly with wildebeest. An odd feature of the crater
elephants is that they are almost exclusively bulls. Breeding herds
- comprising large numbers of females and young with a few attendant
older males - are probably unable to find sufficient quality food
in the crater.
Ngorongoro has carnivores in quantity, drawn by the large herds
of prey animals. It has the densest population of large predators,
mainly lion - about 100 - and more than 400 spotted hyena, living
in eight clans of up to eighty individuals. Both lions and hyenas
will scavenge from each other, depending on weight of numbers and
of course, hunger.
Most of the bird wildlife in Ngorongoro is seasonal. Also influencing
the variety of bird species on display is the ratio of soda water
to fresh water – soda water has the largest expanse of water
on the crater floor, Lake Magadi. The lake is alkaline due to deposits
of volcanic ash thrown out by surrounding volcanoes.
The
Empakaai Crater (2º55' S, 35º50' E, 2,400 m a.s.l) lies
within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area in northern semiarid Tanzania.
The caldera is about 35 km2, with the rim ranging from 2,700 to
3,500 m a.s.l. An 80-m deep alkaline lake, Emakat, partly occupies
the caldera floor. The vegetation in the highlands (2300-3100 m
a.s.l) consists of a mixture of dry evergreen forest with Juniperus
procera, Tecla simplicifolia and Nuxia congesta and highland shrubs
and grassland. Small patches of moist evergreen forest with Hagenia
abyssinica are limited to the southern part of the caldera. Above
the forest afroalpine Artemisia moorland can be found. The eastern
slopes receive about 1000 mm/yr. Rainfall varies considerably due
to orographic effect with a significant year to year variation.
Hagenia abyssinica, a component of moist evergreen forest, being
the most dominant taxa of the pollen sum, this is due to the humid
condition. |
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Serengeti
National Park |
A
million wildebeest... each one driven by the same ancient rhythm,
fulfilling its instinctive role in the inescapable cycle of life:
a frenzied three-week bout of territorial conquests and mating;
survival of the fittest as 40km (25 mile) long columns plunge through
crocodile-infested waters on the annual exodus north; replenishing
the species in a brief population explosion that produces more than
8,000 calves daily before the 1,000 km (600 mile) pilgrimage begins
again.
Tanzania's oldest and most popular national park, the Serengeti
is famed for its annual migration, when some six million hooves
pound the open plains, as more than 200,000 zebra and 300,000 Thomson's
gazelle join the wildebeest’s trek for fresh grazing. Yet
even when the migration is quiet, the Serengeti offers arguably
the most scintillating game-viewing in Africa: great herds of buffalo,
smaller groups of elephant and giraffe, and thousands upon thousands
of eland, topi, kongoni, impala and Grant’s gazelle.
The spectacle of predator versus prey dominates Tanzania’s
greatest park. Golden-maned lion prides feast on the abundance of
plain grazers. Solitary leopards haunt the acacia trees lining the
Seronera River, while a high density of cheetahs prowls the southeastern
plains. Almost uniquely, all three African jackal species occur
here, alongside the spotted hyena and a host of more elusive small
predators, ranging from the insectivorous aardwolf to the beautiful
serval cat.
But there is more to Serengeti than large mammals. Gaudy agama lizards
and rock hyraxes scuffle around the surfaces of the park’s
isolated granite kopjes. A full 100 varieties of dung beetle have
been recorded, as have 500-plus bird species, ranging from the outsized
ostrich and bizarre secretary bird of the open grassland, to the
black eagles that soar effortlessly above the Lobo Hills.
As enduring as the game-viewing is the liberating sense of space
that characterises the Serengeti Plains, stretching across sunburnt
savannah to a shimmering golden horizon at the end of the earth.
Yet, after the rains, this golden expanse of grass is transformed
into an endless green carpet flecked with wildflowers. And there
are also wooded hills and towering termite mounds, rivers lined
with fig trees and acacia woodland stained orange by dust.
Popular the Serengeti might be, but it remains so vast that you
may be the only human audience when a pride of lions masterminds
a siege, focussed unswervingly on its next meal.
About
Serengeti
Size: 14,763 sq km (5,700 sq miles).
Location: 335km (208 miles) from Arusha, stretching north to Kenya
and bordering Lake Victoria to the west.
What
to do
Hot air balloon safaris, Maasai rock paintings and musical rocks.
Visit neighbouring Ngorongoro Crater, Olduvai Gorge, Ol Doinyo Lengai
volcano and Lake Natron's flamingos.
When
to go
To follow the wildebeest migration, December-July. To see predators,
June-October
NOTE
The route and timing of the wildebeest migration is unpredictable.
Allow at least three days to be assured of seeing them on your visit
- longer if you want to see the main predators as well |
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Tarangire
National Park |
Day
after day of cloudless skies.
The fierce sun sucks the moisture from the landscape, baking the
earth a dusty red, the withered g | |