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| NORTHEN
TANZANIA |
| ARUSHA
NATIONAL PARK |
The
closest national park to Arusha town – northern Tanzania’s safari
capital – Arusha National Park is a multi-faceted jewel, often overlooked
by safarigoers, despite offering the opportunity to explore a beguiling
diversity of habitats within a few hours.
The entrance gate leads into shadowy montane forest inhabited by
inquisitive blue monkeys and colourful turacos and trogons – the
only place on the northern safari circuit where the acrobatic black-and-white
colobus monkey is easily seen. In the midst of the forest stands
the spectacular Ngurdoto Crater, whose steep, rocky cliffs enclose
a wide marshy floor dotted with herds of buffalo and warthog.
Further north, rolling grassy hills enclose the tranquil beauty
of the Momela Lakes, each one a different hue of green or blue.
Their shallows sometimes tinged pink with thousands of flamingos,
the lakes support a rich selection of resident and migrant waterfowl,
and shaggy waterbucks display their large lyre-shaped horns on the
watery fringes. Giraffes glide across the grassy hills, between
grazing zebra herds, while pairs of wide-eyed dik-dik dart into
scrubby bush like overgrown hares on spindly legs.
Although elephants are uncommon in Arusha National Park, and lions
absent altogether, leopards and spotted hyenas may be seen slinking
around in the early morning and late afternoon. It is also at dusk
and dawn that the veil of cloud on the eastern horizon is most likely
to clear, revealing the majestic snow-capped peaks of Kilimanjaro,
only 50km (30 miles) distant.
But it is Kilimanjaro’s unassuming cousin, Mount Meru - the fifth
highest in Africa at 4,566 metres (14,990 feet) – that dominates
the park’s horizon. Its peaks and eastern footslopes protected within
the national park, Meru offers unparalleled views of its famous
neighbour, while also forming a rewarding hiking destination in
its own right.
Passing first through wooded savannah where buffalos and giraffes
are frequently encountered, the ascent of Meru leads into forests
aflame with red-hot pokers and dripping with Spanish moss, before
reaching high open heath spiked with giant lobelias. Everlasting
flowers cling to the alpine desert, as delicately-hoofed klipspringers
mark the hike’s progress. Astride the craggy summit, Kilimanjaro
stands unveiled, blushing in the sunrise.
About
Arusha National Park
Size: 137 sq km (53 sq miles).
Location: Northern Tanzania, northeast of Arusha town.
What
to do
Forest walks, numerous picnic sites;
three- or four-day Mt Meru climb - good acclimatisation for Kilimanjaro.
When
to go
To climb Mt Meru, June-February although it may rain in November.
Best views of Kilimanjaro December-February. |
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Lake
Manyara National Park |
Stretching
for 50km along the base of the rusty-gold 600-metre high Rift Valley
escarpment, Lake Manyara is a scenic gem, with a setting extolled
by Ernest Hemingway as “the loveliest I had seen in Africa”.
The compact game-viewing circuit through Manyara offers a virtual
microcosm of the Tanzanian safari experience.
From the entrance gate, the road winds through an expanse of lush
jungle-like groundwater forest where hundred-strong baboon troops
lounge nonchalantly along the roadside, blue monkeys scamper nimbly
between the ancient mahogany trees, dainty bushbuck tread warily
through the shadows, and outsized forest hornbills honk cacophonously
in the high canopy.
Contrasting with the intimacy of the forest is the grassy floodplain
and its expansive views eastward, across the alkaline lake, to the
jagged blue volcanic peaks that rise from the endless Maasai Steppes.
Large buffalo, wildebeest and zebra herds congregate on these grassy
plains, as do giraffes – some so dark in coloration that they appear
to be black from a distance.
Inland of the floodplain, a narrow belt of acacia woodland is the
favoured haunt of Manyara’s legendary tree-climbing lions and impressively
tusked elephants. Squadrons of banded mongoose dart between the
acacias, while the diminutive Kirk’s dik-dik forages in their shade.
Pairs of klipspringer are often seen silhouetted on the rocks above
a field of searing hot springs that steams and bubbles adjacent
to the lakeshore in the far south of the park.
Manyara provides the perfect introduction to Tanzania’s birdlife.
More than 400 species have been recorded, and even a first-time
visitor to Africa might reasonably expect to observe 100 of these
in one day. Highlights include thousands of pink-hued flamingos
on their perpetual migration, as well as other large waterbirds
such as pelicans, cormorants and storks.
About
Lake Manyara National Park
Size: 330 sq km (127 sq miles), of which up to 200 sq km (77 sq
miles) is lake when water levels are high.
Location: In northern Tanzania. The entrance gate lies 1.5 hours
(126km/80 miles) west of Arusha along a newly surfaced road, close
to the ethnically diverse market town of Mto wa Mbu.
What
to do
Game drives, canoeing when the water levels is sufficiently high.
Cultural tours, mountain bike tours, abseiling and forest walks
on the escarpment outside the park.
When
to go
Dry season (July-October) for large mammals;
wet season (November-June) for bird watching, the waterfalls and
canoeing.
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Mount
Kilimanjaro National Park |
Kilimanjaro.
The name itself is a mystery wreathed in clouds. It might mean Mountain
of Light, Mountain of Greatness or Mountain of Caravans. Or it might
not. The local people, the Wachagga, don't even have a name for
the whole massif, only Kipoo (now known as Kibo) for the familiar
snowy peak that stands imperious, overseer of the continent, the
summit of Africa.
Kilimanjaro, by any name, is a metaphor for the compelling beauty
of East Africa. When you see it, you understand why. Not only is
this the highest peak on the African continent; it is also the tallest
free-standing mountain in the world, rising in breathtaking isolation
from the surrounding coastal scrubland – elevation around 900 metres
– to an imperious 5,895 metres (19,336 feet).
Kilimanjaro is one of the world's most accessible high summits,
a beacon for visitors from around the world. Most climbers reach
the crater rim with little more than a walking stick, proper clothing
and determination. And those who reach Uhuru Point, the actual summit,
or Gillman's Point on the lip of the crater, will have earned their
climbing certificates.
And their memories.
But there is so much more to Kili than her summit. The ascent of
the slopes is a virtual climatic world tour, from the tropics to
the Arctic.
Even before you cross the national park boundary (at the 2,700m
contour), the cultivated footslopes give way to lush montane forest,
inhabited by elusive elephant, leopard, buffalo, the endangered
Abbot’s duiker, and other small antelope and primates. Higher still
lies the moorland zone, where a cover of giant heather is studded
with otherworldly giant lobelias.
Above 4,000m, a surreal alpine desert supports little life other
than a few hardy mosses and lichen. Then, finally, the last vestigial
vegetation gives way to a winter wonderland of ice and snow – and
the magnificent beauty of the roof of the continent.
About
Kilimanjaro National Park
Size: 755 sq km (292 sq miles).
Location: Northern Tanzania, near the town of Moshi.
What
to do
Six usual trekking routes to the summit and other more-demanding
mountaineering routes.
Day or overnight hikes on the Shira plateau. Nature trails on the
lower reaches.
Trout fishing.
Visit the beautiful Chala crater lake on the mountain’s southeastern
slopes.
When
to go
Clearest and warmest conditions from December to February, but also
dry (and colder) from July-September.
Accommodation
Huts and campsites on the mountain. |
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| Mkomazi
Game Reserve |
Mkomazi Game Reserve is located in north-eastern Tanzania, on the
Kenyan border.
As well as being a wet season sanctuary for the elephant, Mkomazi
also holds populations of lesser kudu, gerenuk, oryx, eland, giraffe,
buffalo, lion, leopard and cheetah.
During the 1970's and 1980's, Mkomazi suffered a
dramatic decline due to inadequate protection. Today, thanks
to support from conservation organizations, Mkomazi is on
the road to recovery due to the work of conservationists.
A unique success story in Tanzanian conservation, the Conservationists'
vision for Mkomazi is based on the legacy of their friendship
and work with nature.
The park is situated right next to Tsavo National Park and in the
wet season, large migratory herds of elephant, oryx and zebra wander
through the parks. The 1262km² reserve is predominantly dry
and supports savannah vegetation which is also home to the "big
five" (lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and leopard.)
The park boasts 78 kinds of mammals and over 400 bird species. The
endangered wild dog or African wild dog is also spotted in the reserve.
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NGORONGORO
CRATER |
Called
the eighth wonder of the world and stretching across some 8,300
sq km, the Ngorongoro Conservation Area in northern Tanzania boasts
a blend of landscapes, wildlife, people and archaeology that is
unsurpassed in Africa. The volcanoes, grasslands, waterfalls and
mountain forests are home to an abundance of animals and to the
Maasai.
Ngorongoro Crater is one of the world's greatest natural spectacles,
its magical setting and abundant wildlife never fail to enthral
visitors. It borders the Serengeti National Park to the north and
west. A few hours drive to the east takes you to the town of Arusha
which nestles at the foot of Mount Meru, within view of Mount Kilimanjaro.
Arusha is known as the gateway to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area
and the Northern Parks.
The Ngorongoro Conservation Area also encompasses the volcanic area
around the Ngorongoro Crater - including the still active volcano
of Oldonyo Lengai and the famous Olduvai Gorge. Its centerpiece,
the Ngorongoro Crater, is the largest unbroken caldera in the world
and the first sight of it is breathtaking. The floor of the crater
is only 100 sq miles but is home to around 30,000 animals with a
high concentration of predators.
The crater supports up to 25,000 large mammals. Grazers dominate:
zebra, wildebeest - accounting for almost half the animals - gazelle,
buffalo, eland, hartebeest and wart hog. Giraffe, for example, stay
away because there is insufficient food at tree level; topi because
they compete directly with wildebeest. An odd feature of the crater
elephants is that they are almost exclusively bulls. Breeding herds
- comprising large numbers of females and young with a few attendant
older males - are probably unable to find sufficient quality food
in the crater.
Ngorongoro has carnivores in quantity, drawn by the large herds
of prey animals. It has the densest population of large predators,
mainly lion - about 100 - and more than 400 spotted hyena, living
in eight clans of up to eighty individuals. Both lions and hyenas
will scavenge from each other, depending on weight of numbers and
of course, hunger.
Most of the bird wildlife in Ngorongoro is seasonal. Also influencing
the variety of bird species on display is the ratio of soda water
to fresh water – soda water has the largest expanse of water on
the crater floor, Lake Magadi. The lake is alkaline due to deposits
of volcanic ash thrown out by surrounding volcanoes.
The
Empakaai Crater (2º55' S, 35º50' E, 2,400 m a.s.l) lies
within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area in northern semiarid Tanzania.
The caldera is about 35 km2, with the rim ranging from 2,700 to
3,500 m a.s.l. An 80-m deep alkaline lake, Emakat, partly occupies
the caldera floor. The vegetation in the highlands (2300-3100 m
a.s.l) consists of a mixture of dry evergreen forest with Juniperus
procera, Tecla simplicifolia and Nuxia congesta and highland shrubs
and grassland. Small patches of moist evergreen forest with Hagenia
abyssinica are limited to the southern part of the caldera. Above
the forest afroalpine Artemisia moorland can be found. The eastern
slopes receive about 1000 mm/yr. Rainfall varies considerably due
to orographic effect with a significant year to year variation.
Hagenia abyssinica, a component of moist evergreen forest, being
the most dominant taxa of the pollen sum, this is due to the humid
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Serengeti
National Park |
A
million wildebeest... each one driven by the same ancient rhythm,
fulfilling its instinctive role in the inescapable cycle of life:
a frenzied three-week bout of territorial conquests and mating;
survival of the fittest as 40km (25 mile) long columns plunge through
crocodile-infested waters on the annual exodus north; replenishing
the species in a brief population explosion that produces more than
8,000 calves daily before the 1,000 km (600 mile) pilgrimage begins
again.
Tanzania's oldest and most popular national park, the Serengeti
is famed for its annual migration, when some six million hooves
pound the open plains, as more than 200,000 zebra and 300,000 Thomson's
gazelle join the wildebeest’s trek for fresh grazing. Yet even when
the migration is quiet, the Serengeti offers arguably the most scintillating
game-viewing in Africa: great herds of buffalo, smaller groups of
elephant and giraffe, and thousands upon thousands of eland, topi,
kongoni, impala and Grant’s gazelle.
The spectacle of predator versus prey dominates Tanzania’s greatest
park. Golden-maned lion prides feast on the abundance of plain grazers.
Solitary leopards haunt the acacia trees lining the Seronera River,
while a high density of cheetahs prowls the southeastern plains.
Almost uniquely, all three African jackal species occur here, alongside
the spotted hyena and a host of more elusive small predators, ranging
from the insectivorous aardwolf to the beautiful serval cat.
But there is more to Serengeti than large mammals. Gaudy agama lizards
and rock hyraxes scuffle around the surfaces of the park’s isolated
granite koppies. A full 100 varieties of dung beetle have been recorded,
as have 500-plus bird species, ranging from the outsized ostrich
and bizarre secretary bird of the open grassland, to the black eagles
that soar effortlessly above the Lobo Hills.
As enduring as the game-viewing is the liberating sense of space
that characterises the Serengeti Plains, stretching across sunburnt
savannah to a shimmering golden horizon at the end of the earth.
Yet, after the rains, this golden expanse of grass is transformed
into an endless green carpet flecked with wildflowers. And there
are also wooded hills and towering termite mounds, rivers lined
with fig trees and acacia woodland stained orange by dust.
Popular the Serengeti might be, but it remains so vast that you
may be the only human audience when a pride of lions masterminds
a siege, focussed unswervingly on its next meal.
About
Serengeti
Size: 14,763 sq km (5,700 sq miles).
Location: 335km (208 miles) from Arusha, stretching north to Kenya
and bordering Lake Victoria to the west.
What
to do
Hot air balloon safaris, Maasai rock paintings and musical rocks.
Visit neighbouring Ngorongoro Crater, Olduvai Gorge, Ol Doinyo Lengai
volcano and Lake Natron's flamingos.
When
to go
To follow the wildebeest migration, December-July. To see predators,
June-October
Accommodation
NOTE
The route and timing of the wildebeest migration is unpredictable.
Allow at least three days to be assured of seeing them on your visit
- longer if you want to see the main predators as well |
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Tarangire
National Park |
Day
after day of cloudless skies.
The fierce sun sucks the moisture from the landscape, baking the
earth a dusty red, the withered grass as brittle as straw. The Tarangire
River has shrivelled to a shadow of its wet season self. But it
is choked with wildlife. Thirsty nomads have wandered hundreds of
parched kilometres knowing that here, always, there is water.
Herds of up to 300 elephants scratch the dry river bed for underground
streams, while migratory wildebeest, zebra, buffalo, impala, gazelle,
hartebeest and eland crowd the shrinking lagoons. It's the greatest
concentration of wildlife outside the Serengeti ecosystem - a smorgasbord
for predators – and the one place in Tanzania where dry-country
antelope such as the stately fringe-eared oryx and peculiar long-necked
gerenuk are regularly observed.
During the rainy season, the seasonal visitors scatter over a 20,000
sq km (12,500 sq miles) range until they exhaust the green plains
and the river calls once more. But Tarangire's mobs of elephant
are easily encountered, wet or dry.
The swamps, tinged green year round, are the focus for 550 bird
varieties, the most breeding species in one habitat anywhere in
the world.
On drier ground you find the Kori bustard, the heaviest flying bird;
the stocking-thighed ostrich, the world's largest bird; and small
parties of ground hornbills blustering like turkeys.
More ardent bird-lovers might keep an eye open for screeching flocks
of the dazzlingly colourful yellow-collared lovebird, and the somewhat
drabber rufous-tailed weaver and ashy starling – all endemic to
the dry savannah of north-central Tanzania.
Disused termite mounds are often frequented by colonies of the endearing
dwarf mongoose, and pairs of red-and-yellow barbet, which draw attention
to themselves by their loud, clockwork-like duetting.
Tarangire's pythons climb trees, as do its lions and leopards, lounging
in the branches where the fruit of the sausage tree disguises the
twitch of a tail.
About
Tarangire National Park
Size: 2,600 sq km (1,005 sq miles).
Location: 118 km (75 miles) southwest of Arusha.
What
to do
Guided walking safaris.
Day trips to Maasai and Barabaig villages, as well as to the hundreds
of ancient rock paintings in the vicinity of Kolo on the Dodoma
Road.
When
to go
Year round but dry season (June - September) for sheer numbers of
animals |
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Rubondo
Island National Park |
A
pair of fish eagles guards the gentle bay, their distinctive black,
white and chestnut feather pattern gleaming boldly in the morning
sun. Suddenly, the birds toss back their heads in a piercing, evocative
duet. On the sandbank below, a well-fed monster of a crocodile snaps
to life, startled from its nap. It stampedes through the crunchy
undergrowth, crashing into the water in front of the boat, invisible
except for a pair of sentry-post eyes that peek menacingly above
the surface to monitor our movements.
Rubondo Island is tucked in the southwest corner of Lake Victoria,
the world's second-largest lake, an inland sea sprawling between
Tanzania, Uganda and Kenya. With nine smaller islands under its
wing, Rubondo protects precious fish breeding grounds.
Tasty tilapia form the staple diet of the yellow-spotted otters
that frolic in the island’s rocky coves, while rapacious Nile perch,
some weighing more than 100kg, tempt recreational game fishermen
seeking world record catches.
Rubondo is more than a water wonderland. Deserted sandy beaches
nestle against a cloak of virgin forest, where dappled bushbuck
move fleet yet silent through a maze of tamarinds, wild palms, and
sycamore figs strung with a cage of trailing taproots.
The shaggy-coated aquatic sitatunga, elsewhere the most elusive
of antelopes, is remarkably easily observed, not only in the papyrus
swamps it normally inhabits, but also in the forest interior.
Birds are everywhere.
Flocks of African grey parrots – released onto the island after
they were confiscated from illegal exporters – screech in comic
discord as they flap furiously between the trees.
The azure brilliance of a malachite kingfisher perched low on the
reeds competes with the glamorous, flowing tail of a paradise flycatcher
as it flits through the lakeshore forest. Herons, storks and spoonbills
proliferate in the swampy lake fringes, supplemented by thousands
of Eurasian migrants during the northern winter.
Wild jasmine, 40 different orchids and a smorgasbord of sweet, indefinable
smells emanate from the forest. Ninety percent of the park is humid
forest; the remainder ranges from open grassland to lakeside papyrus
beds. A number of indigenous mammal species - hippo, vervet monkey,
genet and mongoose - share their protected habitat with introduced
species such as chimpanzee, black-and-white colobus, elephant and
giraffe, all of which benefit from Rubondo's inaccessibility.
About
Rubondo Island National Park
Size: 240 sq km (93 sq miles).
Location: Northwest Tanzania, 150 km (95 miles) west of Mwanza.
What
to do
Walking safaris, boat excursions, sport fishing, chimpanzee treks,
plans for canoe trips.
When
to go
Dry season, June-August. Wildflowers and butterflies
Wet season November-March. December- February best for migratory
birds |
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Mikumi
National Park |
Swirls
of opaque mist hide the advancing dawn. The first shafts of sun
colour the fluffy grass heads rippling across the plain in a russet
halo. A herd of zebras, confident in their camouflage at this predatory
hour, pose like ballerinas, heads aligned and stripes merging in
flowing motion.
Mikumi National Park abuts the northern border of Africa's biggest
game reserve - the Selous – and is transected by the surfaced road
between Dar es Salaam and Iringa. It is thus the most accessible
part of a 75,000 square kilometre (47,000 square mile) tract of
wilderness that stretches east almost as far as the Indian Ocean.
The open horizons and abundant wildlife of the Mkata Floodplain,
the popular centrepiece of Mikumi, draw frequent comparisons to
the more famous Serengeti Plains.
Lions survey their grassy kingdom – and the zebra, wildebeest, impala
and buffalo herds that migrate across it – from the flattened tops
of termite mounds, or sometimes, during the rains, from perches
high in the trees. Giraffes forage in the isolated acacia stands
that fringe the Mkata River, islets of shade favoured also by Mikumi's
elephants.
Criss-crossed by a good circuit of game-viewing roads, the Mkata
Floodplain is perhaps the most reliable place in Tanzania for sightings
of the powerful eland, the world’s largest antelope. The equally
impressive greater kudu and sable antelope haunt the miombo-covered
foothills of the mountains that rise from the park’s borders.
More than 400 bird species have been recorded, with such colourful
common residents as the lilac-breasted roller, yellow-throated longclaw
and bateleur eagle joined by a host of European migrants during
the rainy season. Hippos are the star attraction of the pair of
pools situated 5km north of the main entrance gate, supported by
an ever-changing cast of waterbirds.
About
Mikumi National Park
Size: 3,230 sq km (1,250 sq miles), the fourth-largest park in Tanzania,
and part of a much larger ecosystem centred on the uniquely vast
Selous Game Reserve.
Location: 283 km (175 miles) west of Dar es Salaam, north of Selous,
and en route to Ruaha, Udzungwa and (for the intrepid) Katavi.
What
to do
Game drives and guided walks. Visit nearby Udzungwa or travel on
to Selous or Ruaha.
When
to go
Accessible year round |
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Kitulo
National Park |
Locals
refer to the Kitulo Plateau as Bustani ya Mungu - The Garden of
God – while botanists have dubbed it the Serengeti of Flowers, host
to ‘one of the great floral spectacles of the world’. And Kitulo
is indeed a rare botanical marvel, home to a full 350 species of
vascular plants, including 45 varieties of terrestrial orchid, which
erupt into a riotous wildflower display of breathtaking scale and
diversity during the main rainy season of late November to April.
Perched at around 2,600 metres (8,500 ft) between the rugged peaks
of the Kipengere, Poroto and Livingstone Mountains, the well-watered
volcanic soils of Kitulo support the largest and most important
montane grassland community in Tanzania.
One of the most important watersheds for the Great Ruaha River,
Kitulo is well known for its floral significance – not only a multitude
of orchids, but also the stunning yellow-orange red-hot poker and
a variety of aloes, proteas, geraniums, giant lobelias, lilies and
aster daisies, of which more than 30 species are endemic to southern
Tanzania.
Big
game is sparsely represented, though a few hardy mountain reedbuck
and eland still roam the open grassland. But Kitulo – a botanist
and hiker’s paradise - is also highly alluring to birdwatchers.
Tanzania’s only population of the rare Denham’s bustard is resident,
alongside a breeding colony of the endangered blue swallow and such
range-restricted species as mountain marsh widow, Njombe cisticola
and Kipengere seedeater. Endemic species of butterfly, chameleon,
lizard and frog further enhance the biological wealth of God’s Garden.
About
the Proposed Kitulo Plateau National Park
Size: 412.9 sq km (159 sq miles)
Location: Southern Tanzania.
The temporary park headquarters at Matamba are situated approximately
100km (60 miles) from Mbeya town.
What
to do
Good hiking trails exist and will soon be developed into a formal
trail system.
Open walking across the grasslands to watch birds and wildflowers.
Hill climbing on the neighbouring ranges. A half-day hike from the
park across the Livingstone Mountains leads to the sumptuous Matema
Beach on Lake Nyasa.
When
to go
Wildflower displays peak between December and April.
The sunnier months of September to November are more comfortable
for hiking but less rewarding to botanists.
Conditions are cold and foggy from June to August |
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Ruaha
National Park |
The
game viewing starts the moment the plane touches down. A giraffe
races beside the airstrip, all legs and neck, yet oddly elegant
in its awkwardness. A line of zebras parades across the runway in
the giraffe's wake.
In the distance, beneath a bulbous baobab tree, a few representatives
of Ruaha's 10,000 elephants - the largest population of any East
African national park, form a protective huddle around their young.
Second only to Katavi in its aura of untrammelled wilderness, but
far more accessible, Ruaha protects a vast tract of the rugged,
semi-arid bush country that characterises central Tanzania. Its
lifeblood is the Great Ruaha River, which courses along the eastern
boundary in a flooded torrent during the height of the rains, but
dwindling thereafter to a scattering of precious pools surrounded
by a blinding sweep of sand and rock.
A fine network of game-viewing roads follows the Great Ruaha and
its seasonal tributaries, where , during the dry season, impala,
waterbuck and other antelopes risk their life for a sip of life-sustaining
water. And the risk is considerable: not only from the prides of
20-plus lion that lord over the savannah, but also from the cheetahs
that stalk the open grassland and the leopards that lurk in tangled
riverine thickets. This impressive array of large predators is boosted
by both striped and spotted hyena, as well as several conspicuous
packs of the highly endangered African wild dog.
Ruaha's unusually high diversity of antelope is a function of its
location, which is transitional to the acacia savannah of East Africa
and the miombo woodland belt of Southern Africa. Grant's gazelle
and lesser kudu occur here at the very south of their range, alongside
the miombo-associated sable and roan antelope, and one of East AfricaÆs
largest populations of greater kudu, the park emblem, distinguished
by the male's magnificent corkscrew horns.
A similar duality is noted in the checklist of 450 birds: the likes
of crested barbet, an attractive yellow-and-black bird whose persistent
trilling is a characteristic sound of the southern bush, occur in
Ruaha alongside central Tanzanian endemics such as the yellow-collared
lovebird and ashy starling.
About
Ruaha National Park
Size: 10,300 sq km (3,980 sq miles), Tanzania's 2nd biggest park.
Location: Central Tanzania, 128km (80 miles) west of Iringa.
What
to do
Day walks or hiking safaris through untouched bush.
Stone age ruins at Isimila, near Iringa, 120 km (75 miles) away,
one of Africa's most important historical sites.
Best
time
For predators and large mammals, dry season (mid-May-December);
bird-watching, lush scenery and wildflowers, wet season (January-April).
The male greater kudu is most visible in June, the breeding season. |
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Saadani
National Park |
Palm
trees sway in a cooling oceanic breeze. White sand and blue water
sparkle alluringly beneath the tropical sun. Traditional dhows sail
slowly past, propelled by billowing white sails, while Swahili fishermen
cast their nets below a brilliant red sunrise.
Saadani is where the beach meets the bush. The only wildlife sanctuary
in East Africa to boast an Indian Ocean beachfront, it possesses
all the attributes that make Tanzania’s tropical coastline and islands
so popular with European sun-worshippers. Yet it is also the one
place where those idle hours of sunbathing might be interrupted
by an elephant strolling past, or a lion coming to drink at the
nearby waterhole!
Protected as a game reserve since the 1960s, in 2002 it was expanded
to cover twice its former area. The reserve suffered greatly from
poaching prior to the late 1990s, but recent years have seen a marked
turnaround, due to a concerted clampdown on poachers, based on integrating
adjacent villages into the conservation drive.
Today,
a surprisingly wide range of grazers and primates is seen on game
drives and walks, among them giraffe, buffalo, warthog, common waterbuck,
reedbuck, hartebeest, wildebeest, red duiker, greater kudu, eland,
sable antelope, yellow baboon and vervet monkey.
Herds of up to 30 elephants are encountered with increasing frequency,
and several lion prides are resident, together with leopard, spotted
hyena and black-backed jackal. Boat trips on the mangrove-lined
Wami River come with a high chance of sighting hippos, crocodiles
and a selection of marine and riverine birds, including the mangrove
kingfisher and lesser flamingo, while the beaches form one of the
last major green turtle breeding sites on mainland Tanzania.
About
the Proposed Saadani National Park
Size: 1,100 sq km (430 sq miles)
Location: On the north coast, roughly 100km (60 miles) northwest
of Dar es Salaam as the crow flies, and a similar distance southwest
of the port of Tanga.
What
to do
Game drives and guided walks.
Boat trips. Swimming.
Visit Saadani fishing village, which lies within the reserve, where
a collection of ruins pays testament to its 19th century heyday
as a major trading port.
When
to go
Generally accessible all-year round, but the access roads are sometimes
impassable during April and May. The best game-viewing is in January
and February and from June to August. |
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| Selous
Game Reserve |
Located in south-east Tanzania in a remote and little-visited
part of the country, the Selous Game Reserve is Africa’s largest
protected wildlife reserve and covers more than 5% of Tanzania’s
total area. It’s rivers, hills, and plains are home to roaming
elephant populations, the area’s famous wild dogs, and some
of the last black rhino left in the region. Due to its remote location,
and because it is most easily accessible by small aircrafts, or,
by a long scenic drive, the Selous Game Reserve has remained one
of the untouched gems of Tanzania’s national parks and game
reserves, and offers visitors a chance to see a wild and expansive
Africa far from paved roads and curio shops.
The Rufiji River Delta is a striking feature of the game reserve.
It connects the Great Ruaha River with the Rufiji River and not
far from the park boundaries empties out into the Indian Ocean along
the Tanzanian Coast. The Rufiji River is the largest water catchment
location in the region, and as such, its home to a plethora of varied
water and bird life. Along its shores, opulent hippos sleep languidly
in the mud and sun themselves, mouths wide open, as the river passes
by. Crocodiles are also common along the Rufiji’s riverbanks,
their amour-plated skins the only rough edges in the rivers incessant
flow. Stiggler’s Gorge, where the Great Ruaha River meets
the Rufiji River, is a breathtaking example of the diversity and
spectacular scenery along the game reserve's waterways.
The Selous is unique among Tanzania’s more renowned preserved
areas because it is a game reserve, not a national park, and therefore
a larger range of activities are permitted. Boating safaris are
becoming a popular alternative to vehicle-based trips, and offer
visitors a chance to see the diverse life along the Rufiji River
up close in all its splendour. Hiking safaris and fly camping are
also ideal ways to explore the reserve and add a bit of adventure
to your African experience.
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Udzungwa
Mountains National Park |
Brooding
and primeval, the forests of Udzungwa seem positively enchanted:
a verdant refuge of sunshine-dappled glades enclosed by 30-metre
(100 foot) high trees, their buttresses layered with fungi, lichens,
mosses and ferns.
Udzungwa is the largest and most biodiverse of a chain of a dozen
large forest-swathed mountains that rise majestically from the flat
coastal scrub of eastern Tanzania. Known collectively as the Eastern
Arc Mountains, this archipelago of isolated massifs has also been
dubbed the African Galapagos for its treasure-trove of endemic plants
and animals, most familiarly the delicate African violet.
Udzungwa alone among the ancient ranges of the Eastern Arc has been
accorded national park status. It is also unique within Tanzania
in that its closed-canopy forest spans altitudes of 250 metres (820
feet) to above 2,000 metres (6,560 ft) without interruption.
Not a conventional game viewing destination, Udzungwa is a magnet
for hikers. An excellent network of forest trails includes the popular
half-day ramble to Sanje Waterfall, which plunges 170 metres (550
feet) through a misty spray into the forested valley below. The
more challenging two-night Mwanihana Trail leads to the high plateau,
with its panoramic views over surrounding sugar plantations, before
ascending to Mwanihana peak, the second-highest point in the range.
Ornithologists are attracted to Udzungwa for an avian wealth embracing
more than 400 species, from the lovely and readily-located green-headed
oriole to more than a dozen secretive Eastern Arc endemics.
Four bird species are peculiar to Udzungwa, including a forest partridge
first discovered in 1991 and more closely related to an Asian genus
than to any other African fowl.
Of six primate species recorded, the Iringa red colobus and Sanje
Crested Mangabey both occur nowhere else in the world – the latter,
remarkably, remained undetected by biologists prior to 1979.
Undoubtedly, this great forest has yet to reveal all its treasures:
ongoing scientific exploration will surely add to its diverse catalogue
of endemics.
About
Udzungwa Mountains National Park
Size: 1,990 sq km (770 sq miles).
Location: Five hours (350 km/215 miles) from Dar es Salaam; 65 kms
(40 miles) southwest of Mikumi.
What
to do
From a two-hour hike to the waterfall to camping safaris.
Combine with nearby Mikumi or en route to Ruaha.
When
to go
Possible year round although slippery in the rains.
The dry season is June-October before the short rains but be prepared
for rain anytime |
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Gombe
Stream National Park |
An excited whoop
erupts from deep in the forest, boosted immediately by a dozen other
voices, rising in volume and tempo and pitch to a frenzied shrieking
crescendo. It is the famous ‘pant-hoot’ call: a bonding ritual that
allows the participants to identify each other through their individual
vocal stylisations. To the human listener, walking through the ancient
forests of Gombe Stream, this spine-chilling outburst is also an
indicator of imminent visual contact with man’s closest genetic
relative: the chimpanzee.
Gombe is the smallest of Tanzania's national parks: a fragile strip
of chimpanzee habitat straddling the steep slopes and river valleys
that hem in the sandy northern shore of Lake Tanganyika.
Its
chimpanzees – habituated to human visitors – were made famous by
the pioneering work of Jane Goodall, who in 1960 founded a behavioural
research program that now stands as the longest-running study of
its kind in the world. The matriarch Fifi, the last surviving member
of the original community, only three-years old when Goodall first
set foot in Gombe, is still regularly seen by visitors.
Chimpanzees share about 98% of their genes with humans, and no scientific
expertise is required to distinguish between the individual repertoires
of pants, hoots and screams that define the celebrities, the powerbrokers,
and the supporting characters. Perhaps you will see a flicker of
understanding when you look into a chimp's eyes, assessing you in
return - a look of apparent recognition across the narrowest of
species barriers.
The most visible of Gombe’s other mammals are also primates. A troop
of beachcomber olive baboons, under study since the 1960s, is exceptionally
habituated, while red-tailed and red colobus monkeys - the latter
regularly hunted by chimps – stick to the forest canopy.
The park’s 200-odd bird species range from the iconic fish eagle
to the jewel-like Peter’s twinspots that hop tamely around the visitors’
centre.
After dusk, a dazzling night sky is complemented by the lanterns
of hundreds of small wooden boats, bobbing on the lake like a sprawling
city.
About
Gombe Stream National Park
Size: 52 sq km (20 sq miles), Tanzania's smallest park.
Location: 16 km (10 miles) north of Kigoma on the shore of Lake
Tanganyika in western Tanzania.
What
to do
Chimpanzee trekking; hiking, swimming and snorkelling;
visit the site of Henry Stanley's famous “Dr Livingstone I presume”
at Ujiji near Kigoma, and watch the renowned dhow builders at work.
When
to go
The chimps don't roam as far in the wet season (February-June, November-mid
December) so may be easier to find better picture opportunities
in the dry (July-October and late December).
to safeguard you and the chimps. Allow at least 2 days to see them
- this is not a zoo so there are no guarantees where they'll be
each day. |
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Katavi
National Park |
Isolated, untrammelled
and seldom visited, Katavi is a true wilderness, providing the few
intrepid souls who make it there with a thrilling taste of Africa
as it must have been a century ago. Tanzania's third largest national
park, it lies in the remote southwest of the country, within a truncated
arm of the Rift Valley that terminates in the shallow, brooding
expanse of Lake Rukwa.
The
bulk of Katavi supports a hypnotically featureless cover of tangled
brachystegia woodland, home to substantial but elusive populations
of the localised eland, sable and roan antelopes. But the main focus
for game viewing within the park is the Katuma River and associated
floodplains such as the seasonal Lakes Katavi and Chada. During
the rainy season, these lush, marshy lakes are a haven for myriad
waterbirds, and they also support Tanzania’s densest concentrations
of hippo and crocodile.
It is during the dry season, when the floodwaters retreat, that
Katavi truly comes into its own. The Katuma, reduced to a shallow,
muddy trickle, forms the only source of drinking water for miles
around, and the flanking floodplains support game concentrations
that defy belief. An estimated 4,000 elephants might converge on
the area, together with several herds of 1,000-plus buffalo, while
an abundance of giraffe, zebra, impala and reedbuck provide easy
pickings for the numerous lion prides and spotted hyena clans whose
territories converge on the floodplains.
Katavi’s most singular wildlife spectacle is provided by its hippos.
Towards the end of the dry season, up to 200 individuals might flop
together in any riverine pool of sufficient depth. And as more hippos
gather in one place, so does male rivalry heat up – bloody territorial
fights are an everyday occurrence, with the vanquished male forced
to lurk hapless on the open plains until it gathers sufficient confidence
to mount another challenge.
About Katavi National Park
Size: 4,471 sq km (1,727 sq miles).
Location; Southwest Tanzania, east of Lake Tanganyika.
The headquarters at Sitalike lie 40km (25 miles) south of Mpanda
town.
What
to do.
Walking, driving and camping safaris.
Near Lake Katavi, visit the tamarind tree inhabited by the spirit
of the legendary hunter Katabi (for whom the park is named) - offerings
are still left here by locals seeking the spirit’s blessing.
When
to go
The dry season (May-October).
Roads within the park are often flooded during the rainy season
but may be passable from mid-December to February.
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Mahale
Mountains National Park |
Set
deep in the heart of the African interior, inaccessible by road
and only 100km (60 miles) south of where Stanley uttered that immortal
greeting “Doctor Livingstone, I presume”, is a scene reminiscent
of an Indian Ocean island beach idyll.
Silky white coves hem in the azure waters of Lake Tanganyika, overshadowed
by a chain of wild, jungle-draped peaks towering almost 2km above
the shore: the remote and mysterious Mahale Mountains.
Mahale Mountains, like its northerly neighbour Gombe Stream, is
home to some of Africa’s last remaining wild chimpanzees: a population
of roughly 800, habituated to human visitors by a Japanese research
project founded in the 1960s. Tracking the chimps of Mahale is a
magical experience. The guide's eyes pick out last night's nests
- shadowy clumps high in a gallery of trees crowding the sky. Scraps
of half-eaten fruit and fresh dung become valuable clues, leading
deeper into the forest. Butterflies flit in the dappled sunlight.
Then suddenly you are in their midst: preening each other's glossy
coats in concentrated huddles, squabbling noisily, or bounding into
the trees to swing effortlessly between the vines.
The area is also known as Nkungwe, after the park's largest mountain,
held sacred by the local Tongwe people, and at 2,460 metres (8,069
ft) the highest of the six prominent points that make up the Mahale
Range.
And while chimpanzees are the star attraction, the slopes support
a diverse forest fauna, including readily observed troops of red
colobus, red-tailed and blue monkeys, and a kaleidoscopic array
of colourful forest birds.
You can trace the Tongwe people's ancient pilgrimage to the mountain
spirits, hiking through the montane rainforest belt – home to an
endemic race of Angola colobus monkey - to high grassy ridges chequered
with alpine bamboo. Then bathe in the impossibly clear waters of
the world’s longest, second-deepest and least-polluted freshwater
lake – harbouring an estimated 1,000 fish species - before returning
as you came, by boat.
About
Mahale Mountains National Park
Size: 1,613 sq km (623 sq miles).
Location: Western Tanzania, bordering Lake Tanganyika.
What
to do
Chimp tracking (allow two days); hiking; camping safaris; snorkelling;
fish for your dinner.
When
to go
Dry season (May-October) best for forest walks although no problem
in the light rains of October/November.
NOTE
The same rules for chimpanzee viewing at Gombe Stream apply at Mahale.
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